May 25, 2024 - Classic Italy
Florence:  Uffizi Museum

We started this day back in the Piazza della Signoria.  First thing on the agenda was touring the famous Uffizi Gallery, one of the must-do items in Florence.
   
Looking up at the Palazzo Vecchio -- the palatial Town Hall of the Medici -- and the Torre di Arnolfo (Arnolfo Tower) --  300-foot, pretty tall for a medieval times.
   
Looking into the Loggia dei Lanzi at Benvenuto Cellini's "Perseus (1545 - 1553), the loggtia's most noteworthy piece, showing the Greek hero who decapitated the snake-headed Medusa.
   
We enter the Palazzo Vecchio's courtyard.  Per Rick Steves:  This Palace was Florence's symbol of civic power.  You're surrounded by art for art's sake -- a cherub frivolously marks the courtyard's center, and ornate stuccoes and frescoes decorate the walls and columns.  Such luxury represented a big change 500 years ago."
   

A stern Roman says hello.

Actually, the head is of the Emperor Trajan (98-117 AD) in Greek marble, and the body dates 100 or so years later and is of Luni marble.

Trajan is remembered as the second of the Five Good Emperors of the Nerva–Antonine dynasty. He was a philanthropic ruler and a successful soldier-emperor who presided over one of the greatest military expansions in Roman history, during which, by the time of his death, the Roman Empire reached its maximum territorial extent. He was given the title of Optimus ('the best') by the Roman Senate.

   

Just past the Loggia is the main entrance to the Uffizi.  It did not seem as crowded as the Academic Gallery, but there were certainly lots of people.

The Uffizi is of the most important and most visited Italian museums.  It is also one of the largest and best-known in the world and holds a collection of priceless works, particularly from the period of the Italian Renaissance.  Uffizi is ranked as the 5th most visited art museum in the world, with around five million visitors annually.

After the ruling House of Medici died out, their art collections were given to the city of Florence under the famous Patto di famiglia negotiated by Anna Maria Luisa, the last Medici heiress. The Uffizi is one of the first modern museums. The gallery had been open to visitors by request since the sixteenth century, and in 1769 it was officially opened to the public, formally becoming a museum in 1865.

   
We start in the corridor on the east side.  A local tour guide showed us around.
   
Impressive ceilings.
   

Bust of Tiberius, Roman emperor from AD 14 until 37. He succeeded his stepfather Augustus, the first Roman emperor.

Tiberius was one of the most successful Roman generals: his conquests of Pannonia, Dalmatia, Raetia, and (temporarily) parts of Germania laid the foundations for the empire's northern frontier.

Tiberius spent much of his final years on the island of Capri, leaving control of the empire in the hands of the prefect Lucius Aelius Sejanus.  He came to be remembered as a dark, reclusive and sombre ruler who never really wanted to be emperor; Pliny the Elder called him "the gloomiest of men".

When Tiberius died, he was succeeded by his grand-nephew and adopted grandson, Germanicus's son Caligula, whose lavish building projects and varyingly successful military endeavours drained much of the wealth that Tiberius had accumulated in the public and Imperial coffers through good management.  Caligula only lasted four years as emperor before being assassinated.

   
This is the Roman emperor Nero who reigned from AD 54 until his death in AD 68.  Most Roman sources offer overwhelmingly negative assessments of his personality and reign. Most contemporary sources describe him as tyrannical, self-indulgent, and debauched.
   

Artemis, the Greek goddess of the hunt, wilderness, and the moon.  She wears a flowing dress and is accompanied by a hunting animal, in this case, a panther. Statues like this one were common in ancient Roman and Greek art.  This type of sculpture can often be found in major art museums like the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, which houses many classical works. The pose and style reflect classical ideals of beauty and movement.

   
We started off in the Medieval room (1200-1400).
   

Then we arrived in the Botticelli room (1450 - 1500) which featured two of Botticelli's most famous paintings.

Alessandro di Mariano di Vanni Filipepi (1445–1510), better known as Sandro Botticelli or simply Botticelli, was an Italian painter of the Early Renaissance.

One of them is the Primavera, meaning Spring, shown below.  It has been described as "one of the most written about, and most controversial paintings in the world", and also "one of the most popular paintings in Western art".  The painting depicts a group of figures from classical mythology in a garden, but no story has been found that brings this particular group together.  Most critics agree that the painting is an allegory based on the lush growth of Spring, but accounts of any precise meaning vary, though many involve the Renaissance Neoplatonism which then fascinated intellectual circles in Florence. The subject was first described as Primavera by the art historian Giorgio Vasari who saw it at Villa Castello, just outside Florence, by 1550.

The painting is unquestionably a celebration of love, peace, and prosperity.  There are 138 different species of plant that have been identified in this painting, each one of which Botticelli has meticulously reproduced.

The painting is inevitably discussed with Botticelli's other very large mythological painting, the Birth of Venus, also in this room.  They are among the most famous paintings in the world, and icons of Italian Renaissance painting; of the two, the Birth is better known than the Primavera.

   
One of the most famous paintings in the world, Sandro Botticelli's "The Birth of Venus".   It depicts the goddess Venus arriving at the shore after her birth, when she had emerged from the sea fully-grown.
   

Botticelli's The Birth of Venus depicts depictions of subjects from classical mythology on a very large scale which was virtually unprecedented in Western art since classical antiquity, as was the size and prominence of a nude female figure in the Birth. It used to be thought that they were both commissioned by the same member of the Medici family, but this is now uncertain.
 
They have been endlessly analysed by art historians, with the main themes being: the emulation of ancient painters and the context of wedding celebrations (generally agreed), the influence of Renaissance Neo-Platonism (somewhat controversial), and the identity of the commissioners (not agreed). Most art historians agree, however, that the Birth does not require complex analysis to decode its meaning, in the way that the Primavera probably does. While there are subtleties in the painting, its main meaning is a straightforward, if individual, treatment of a traditional scene from Greek mythology, and its appeal is sensory and very accessible, hence its enormous popularity.
 
   
Botticelli's "The Virgin and Child with Four Angels and Six Saints", created around 1488.
 
This painting is an example of a sacra conversazione, a genre that depicts the Virgin Mary and the Christ Child enthroned, surrounded by saints and angels in a unified space. In this composition, the Virgin and Child are centrally positioned, flanked by angels and six saints, including prominent figures such as Saint John the Baptist and Saint Michael. The serene expressions and harmonious arrangement reflect Botticelli's mastery in conveying religious devotion and human beauty.
 
The artwork was originally commissioned for the Church of San Barnaba in Florence and exemplifies the stylistic characteristics of the Italian Renaissance, particularly the emphasis on balanced composition, graceful figures, and delicate detailing.
   
Botticelli's "The Madonna of the Magnificat" (Madonna del Magnificat) by Sandro Botticelli, housed in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence, Italy. It depicts the Virgin Mary, crowned by two angels, writing the Magnificat (a hymn of praise) while holding the infant Jesus. The composition is circular, known as a "tondo," and it is surrounded by an intricate gilded frame. This is one of Botticelli's masterpieces, created around 1481.
   

Looking into the Tribuna of the Uffizi, an octagonal shaped room designed by Bernardo Buontalenti for Francesco I de' Medici in 1584.  The most important antiquities and High Renaissance and Bolognese paintings from the Medici collection were and still are displayed here.

At far left, with just the head and arm visible, is the Venus de' Medici, a Roman copy of the lost original of the great Greek sculptor Praxiteles' Aphrodite.  Balanced, narmonious, and serene, this statue was considered the epitome of beauty and sexuality in Renaissance Florence.

By the 1770s, the Uffizi, and in particular the Tribuna, was the hub for Grand Tourists visiting Florence.

   
A bust of Lucius Aelius Caesar, with a classical head set in a renaissance bust.  The bust portrays Lucius Ceionius Commodus who was born in 100 AD and designated by the Emporer Hadrian as his heir with the name of Aelius Caesar in 136 AD.  His adoption and subsequent designation as heir sparking the jealousy of many of his contemporaries, Aelius Caesar died suddenly in 138 AD, leaving a son Lucius Veras, who was adopted by the Emperor Antoninous Pius together with Marcus Aurelius.
   
A bust with the head of Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as indicated by the inscription on the pedestal ("M. AURELIUS") and the characteristic features: curly hair, full beard, and thoughtful expression.
   
The head traditionally thought to portray the dying Alexander the Great.  Some consider it Triton -- the Greek god of the sea, the son of Poseidon and Amphitrite.
   
Back in the first corridor.
   
The Uffizi is U-shaped, running around the below courtyard.
   

The Baptism of Christ is an oil-on-panel painting finished around 1475 in the studio of the Italian Renaissance painter Andrea del Verrocchio and generally ascribed to him and his pupil Leonardo da Vinci.

The picture depicts the Baptism of Jesus by John the Baptist as recorded in the Biblical Gospels of Matthew, Mark and Luke. The angel to the left is recorded as having been painted by the youthful Leonardo, a fact which has excited so much special comment and mythology, that the importance and value of the picture as a whole and within the œuvre of Verrocchio is often overlooked. Modern critics also attribute much of the landscape in the background to Leonardo as well.

There are two kneeling angels, one holding Jesus's garment, and the other with its hands folded, both in front of the symbolization of salvation and life, the palm tree.  While barefoot in the river, John the Baptist is clothed in robes with a halo over his head. He is holding a staff with a gold cross at the top as he pours the river water on Jesus's head.  Jesus has a halo over his head as he is depicted praying barefoot in the river. He has a small garment covering his genitals with visible pubic hair peeking through.  The scroll by John's left hand contains the two Latin words "ECCE AGNIUS", a reference to a phrase in the description of Jesus' baptism in the Vulgate translation of John 1:29, Ecce agnus Dei, qui tollit peccata mundi ("Behold the Lamb of God which taketh away the sins of the world"). There is also a bright-eyed raptor that swoops down over the head of John and into the trees in the background. God's hands can be seen at the top of the painting coming from heaven as it opens up.  The Holy Spirit, represented by a dove, appears above with rays of light shining down on Jesus, revealing Jesus's divine nature.

Andrea del Verrocchio was a sculptor, goldsmith, painter and talented worker who ran a large and successful workshop in Florence in the second half of the 15th century.  Verrocchio trained his apprentices by having them study surface anatomy, drawing, mechanics, sculpting, drapery studies, and the use of light and shade.  He also introduced his students to subjects such as geography, Italian literature, and poetry.  Verrocchio was known to set aside zones in his works for his apprentices to sketch on and eventually paint after he began them.  Among his apprentices and close associates were the painters Botticelli, Francesco Botticini, Piero Perugino, Francesco di Simone, Lorenzo di Credi and Leonardo da Vinci.

Verrocchio was not himself a prolific painter and very few pictures are attributed to his hand, his fame lying chiefly in his sculptured works. Verrocchio's paintings, as are typical of Florentine works of that date, are in tempera on wooden panels. The technique of painting artworks in oil paint, previously used in Italy only for durable items like parade shields, was introduced to Florence by Dutch and Flemish painters and their imported works around the date that this painting was created.

In 1810, the painting entered the collection of the Accademia and passed to the Uffizi in 1959.

 

   

Another Leonardo Da Vinci painting, although it is unfinished, The Adoration of the Magi.

Leonardo was given the commission by the Augustinian monks of San Donato in Scopeto in Florence in 1481, but he departed for Milan the following year, leaving the painting unfinished. It has been in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence since 1670.

The Virgin Mary and Child are depicted in the foreground and form a triangular shape with the Magi kneeling in adoration. Behind them is a semicircle of accompanying figures, including what may be a self-portrait of the young Leonardo (on the far right). In the background on the left is the ruin of a pagan building, on which workmen can be seen, apparently repairing it. On the right are men on horseback fighting and a sketch of a rocky landscape.

The ruins are a possible reference to the Basilica of Maxentius, which, according to medieval legend, the Romans claimed would stand until a virgin gave birth. It is supposed to have collapsed on the night of Christ's birth. (In fact it was not even built until a later date.)

The ruins dominate a preparatory perspective drawing by Leonardo, which also includes the fighting horsemen. The palm tree in the center has associations with the Virgin Mary, partly due to the phrase "You are stately as a palm tree" from the Song of Solomon, which is believed to prefigure her. Another aspect of the palm tree can be the usage of the palm tree as a symbol of victory for ancient Rome, whereas in Christianity it is a representation of martyrdom—triumph over death—so in conclusion we can say that the palm, in general, represents triumph. The other tree in the painting is from the carob family; the seeds from this tree are used as a unit of measurement for valuable stones and jewels. It is therefore associated with crowns, suggesting Christ as the king of kings or the Virgin as the future queen of heaven, as well as that this is nature's gift to the newborn Christ. As with Michelangelo's Doni Tondo, the background is probably supposed to represent the Pagan world supplanted by the Christian world, inaugurated by the events in the foreground. The artist uses bright colors to illuminate the figures in the foreground of the painting. The Virgin and Child are, in fact, painted yellow, the color of light. The trees are painted blue, an unusual color for trees of any kind. On the right side, the most credible self-portrait of Leonardo da Vinci as a 30-year-old can be seen, according to several critics.

   
Below is the Annunciation, a painting by the Italian Renaissance artist Leonardo da Vinci, dated between 1472–1476.  Leonardo's earliest extant major work, it was completed in Florence while he was an apprentice in the studio of Andrea del Verrocchio. The painting was made using oil and tempera on a large poplar panel and depicts the Annunciation, a popular biblical subject in 15th-century Florence. Since 1867 it has been housed here in the Uffizi. Though the work has been criticized for inaccuracies in its composition, it is among the best-known portrayals of the Annunciation in Christian art.
 
The subject matter of the work is drawn from Luke 1.26–39. It depicts the angel Gabriel announcing to Mary that she would conceive miraculously and give birth to a son to be named Jesus and called "the Son of God", whose reign would never end.
 
The marble table in front of Mary probably is derived from the tomb of Piero and Giovanni de' Medici in the Basilica of San Lorenzo, Florence, which Verrocchio had sculpted during this same period. Of great refinement is the semi-transparent veil under the book of the Holy Scriptures that the Virgin is reading, symbol of the prophecies of the Old Testament. The text on which Mary rests her right hand shows Latin alphabetical characters and abbreviations of the Lexicon abbreviaturarum, used by scribes since the Middle Ages, without the sequence of letters written on the page having any meaning: the Virgin, in all probability, seems to be meditating on the shape of the letters according to a mystical mode of spiritual reading.  The angel holds a Madonna lily, a symbol of Mary's virginity and of the city of Florence.
 
It is presumed that, being a keen observer of nature, Leonardo painted the wings of the angel to resemble those of a bird in flight, but later, the wings were lengthened dramatically by another artist.
 
Although this is the earliest known commissioned painting by Leonardo, it has been pointed out that the painting already bears characteristics that are described as demonstrating the signature innovations he introduced in his paintings: sfumato and atmospheric perspective.  The architectural features are drawn according to the rules of perspective, with a central vanishing point. There are some anomalies, such as the Virgin's right arm appearing to be extended.
   

 Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo.

The Doni Tondo or Doni Madonna is the only finished panel painting by the mature Michelangelo to survive.  (Two other panel paintings, generally agreed to be by Michelangelo but unfinished, The Entombment and the so-called Manchester Madonna, are both in the National Gallery in London.)  Still in its original frame, the Doni Tondo was probably commissioned by Agnolo Doni to commemorate his marriage to Maddalena Strozzi, the daughter of a powerful Tuscan family.  The painting is in the form of a tondo, meaning in Italian 'round', a shape which is frequently associated during the Renaissance with domestic ideas.

The work was probably created during the period after Doni's marriage in 1503 or 1504, and before the Sistine Chapel ceiling frescoes were begun in 1508. The Doni Tondo portrays the Holy Family (the child Jesus, Mary, and Joseph) in the foreground, along with John the Baptist in the middle-ground, and contains five nude male figures in the background. The inclusion of these nude figures has been interpreted in a variety of ways.

   

Raphael's Madonna of the Goldfinch.

Raphael is considered to be a “master” of the High Renaissance, a title he shares with Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci. He was born in 1483 and died in 1520, living a mere thirty-seven years. Despite his relatively short lifespan, his influence was significant. He produced a vast quantity of work in a variety of media. He was active in architecture, printmaking, painting, and drawing. During the first half of his career, he spent years in Northern Italy where he was influenced by the Florentine styles he saw there, hence this part of his life is known as his Florentine Period. In 1508, he moved to Rome where he continued to work. Many of his commissions came from the Vatican, including the Apostolic Palace, and one of his most famous works, School of Athens.  Because of his relationship with the church, he and Michelangelo were fierce rivals throughout both their careers, often competing for the same commissions.

In this painting, as in most of the Madonnas of his Florentine period, Raphael arranged the three figures - Mary, Christ and the young John the Baptist - to fit into a geometrical design. Though the positions of the three bodies are natural, together they form an almost regular triangle. The Madonna is shown young and beautiful, as with Raphael's various other Madonnas.  She is also clothed in red and blue, also typical, for red signifies the Passion of Christ and blue was used to signify the church. Christ and John are still very young, only babies. John holds a goldfinch in his hand, and Christ is reaching out to touch it. The background is one typical of Raphael.  The natural setting is diverse and yet all calmly frames the central subject taking place.

The goldfinch represents Christ's crucifixion. The reason for its association comes from the legend that its red spot was born at the time of the crucifixion. It flew down over the head of Christ and was taking a thorn from His crown, when it was splashed with the drop of His blood. The book in Mary's hand reads Sedes Sapientiae or The Throne of Wisdom. This term usually is applied to images in which Mary is seated upon a throne, with Jesus on her lap, but in this case, the inscription implies the rock on which Mary sits is her natural throne.

   
Ornate ceiling.
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
Another Luni marble bust with the head of Trajan in Greek marble.
   
Looking across the Arno River from the Uffizi.
   
Looking down at the Ponte Vecchio.
   
Bell Tower on the left, Cathedral Dome on the right.
   
And then we were out, back in the Piazza della Signoria.
   
 
   
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